Using Bulbs for spring and summer color is an almost fool poof gardening technique.

Spring bulbs are so called because they bloom in the spring although they are planted in the fall. For that reason, they are sometimes called fall bulbs. So, spring bulbs and fall bulbs are the same thing.

Summer bulbs bloom in the summer regardless of when they are planted.

Hardy bulbs are those which can survive in the ground for years regardless of freezing or drought. Tender bulbs can not withstand freezing temperatures or prolonged drought.

Bulbous plants are perennials and will perform best if given the same care as other perennials.

What is a bulb?

Technically, a bulb is composed of leaves wrapped around each other with a hard pad on the bottom called a basal plate from which roots will sprout and with a flower bud in the center of the leaves. An onion is the classic example of a bulb. Daffodils and tulips also produce bulbs. The potato you eat is a tuber, ginger grows from a rhizome and gladiolus grows from corms. All of these are different, but to avoid confusion we often just refer to them as ‘bulbs’.

All plants grown from’ bulbs’ are perennials and will perform best if given the same care as other perennials. The bulb you buy today came from a plant that was given optimal care and treatment. Consequently, a true bulb already has the flower bud inside and even if you plant it in a less than favorable environment, it will bloom. The first year is foolproof. After that, blooming will depend on the care you give the plant.

Now, a disclaimer: Tulips, hyacinths, and crocus should be treated as annuals in the Bay Area. Because we do not get cold winters, these bulbs will not produce well or at all after the first year. Digging them up, cleaning them off and storing them in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 months is seldom worth the effort. Therefore, if you want to enjoy these plants, grow them in containers and discard them after they bloom.

Light

Most spring bulbs need about six hours of sum. Some will grow in filtered sun under deciduous trees. Daffodils planted around birch trees are particularly attractive. Dahlias and other summer bulbs grow best in full sun.

Planting

“Bulbs” may be planted individually, but they look best when planted as a group. Daffodils, for example, can be planted in a hole 6 to 8 inches deep and 24 to 48 inches across. Bulb food is scatted across the bottom, covered with one-half inch of soil and the bulbs placed in a scattered, irregular fashion. Bulbs should be placed no more than eight inches apart. Never, ever plant bulbs in a straight row because they lose their natural appearance. Dutch Iris bulbs can be placed in between the Daffodil bulbs and they will come up and bloom after the Daffodils are finished. After placing the bulbs, cover them with soil and water them thoroughly. Rocky, clay soil should be amended properly before placing and covering the bulbs.

As a general rule, the depth of the hole should be about tree times the height of the bulb. If it is necessary to plant the bulbs individually, dig the hole a depth of three times the height of the bulb, scatter a bit of bulb food in the hole, cover with one-half inch of soil and plant the bulb. When the bulbs sprout and break the surface, they should be given a light dusting of bulb food. A third fertilizing should be made when the plant has finished flowering. This will also be your fertilizing schedule for subsequent years.

Post Bloom and Over Planting

When the plants have finished blooming, the foliage should not be cut, braided or folded. The foliage must have maximum sun exposure to produce food for the bulb and to produce next year’s flower. Seed pods should be cut off to prevent diverting food and energy to the seeds rather than to the bulb. A light ground cover such as sand strawberry, pansies or alyssum can be grown over the bulb bed and the plants will grow through them each year.

Fertilizing

Bone meal is no longer recommended as a fertilizer for bulbs. Fifteen or more years ago, manufacturers began cooking bones to extract all the Nitrogen and micronutrients leaving little but Calcium and Phosphorous. Today, we recommend Bulb Food which contains all of the nutrients needed by the plants (including some bone meal).

Pre-chilling

Tulips, Hyacinths and Crocus will produce longer stems if they are chilled in the lower portion of the refrigerator for 6 to 8 weeks before planting. They should be kept in a paper bag (never plastic) and there should be no fruit nearby. These bulbs will have to be dug up when the foliage dies, then stored until July or August and then refrigerated for 8 weeks if they are to be replanted.

Other Spring Bulbs

The previous instructions refer primarily to Narcissus and Dutch Iris, but apply equally well to other hardy bulbs such as: Grape hyacinths, Leucojum, Galanthus, Chionodoxa, Anemone or Sparaxis.

A particularly novel and attractive use of bulbs is to plant 2 to 4 dozen Spring Starflowers (Ipheion uniflorum) in your lawn. Scatter them widely. Punch a hole about 2 ˝ inches deep and drop the bulb in. The flowers will bloom in the lawn during spring and the foliage blends with grass leaves during the rest of the year.

Summer bulbs such as Dahlias and Gladiolus require some of the same treatment, but refer to our Care Guide for Summer Bulbs.